Three (3) days in Tbilisi, Georgia
I must admit that Tbilisi is a unique and different destination that combines European and Asian characteristics giving you the feeling of having visited many countries at once.
What I recall the most from this trip is how surprised I was at literally every corner of this city. The signs of the war are still visible in most of the abandoned and ruined buildings of the Georgian capital and the poverty and people’s suffering marked on their faces. Nevertheless, while walking among the ruined, poor and old neighborhoods, suddenly a totally different, new building will arise or a little statue or a tree whose trunk seems to be alive and kicking, or a luxurious complex of buildings or a cute café or bar will amaze you. Honestly in Tbilisi you are not aware of what comes next when turning the corner and that makes it remarkable.
Let’s see how you can take advantage of this incomparable destination in three days:
The Clock Tower and Ioane Shavteli Street:
One of the most popular spots in the city is the Clock Tower, a clock constructed by ruins from different type of buildings with a unique architectonic style is one of the most beautiful places to visit in Tbilisi. The whole street where the clock is located (Ioane Shavteli Street) is also composed of nice traditional buildings, little souvenir shops and one of the most charming vegetarian cafés Café Leila (https://maps.app.goo.gl/Gi7fj27YtWGwaVDY6). At the end of the street stands the impressive Anchiskhati Basilica Orthodox Church, the oldest surviving orthodox church.
Bridge of Peace:
The impressive pedestrian bridge, a symbol of harmony that connects the two sides of the city over Kura River, is a must visit during your stay at the city. It is even more striking to cross it during nighttime due to its innumerous led lights.
Erekle II Street:
Having crossed the Bridge of Peace from the old city’s side there is a little street Erekle II Turn with a canteen truck that gives a bohemian atmosphere while if you turn left at the end of this street you reach the Erekle II Street, a street full of restaurants, cafes, bars and colorful Italian looking old buildings. If you turn right at Erekle II Turn at Anton Katalikosi Street it is located Nikolozi (https://maps.app.goo.gl/KYnGNMdwCspPwdiSA) a very typical Georgian restaurant at the basement of the building giving the impression that you eat at a traditional Georgian house where time has stopped a few decades ago. It definitely worths a visit.
Europe Square/Metekhi Bridge:
On the other side of the Bridge of Peace is located Rike Park, a nice free park with a variety of statues and activities that leads to Europe Square. Next to the square you can take pictures at the Berlin Wall Memorial and visit the Metekhi Virgin Mary Assumption Church. The view of the church and the River is getting better by crossing the Metekhi Bridge. This is a great opportunity to take pictures of the old city, the River and the Bridge of Peace as it is the most central spot.
Meidan Bazar:
At the end of Metekhi Bridge make sure to locate the stairs that lead you to the underground Meidan Bazar. This is the ideal place to buy Georgian coffee (others know it as Turkish or Greek coffee), souvenirs, the Georgian vodka style drink called Chacha, the popular Georgian sweets called churchkhela and more traditional Georgian products and artisanal objects.
Jan Shardeni Street and Cotton Rows
From the other side of the Meidan Bazar stand two more well known streets: Jan Shardeni Street which is full of restaurants, cafes and bars where you can smoke shisha and Cotton Rows, a traditional street with little stores for more souvenirs and shopping.
Tbilisi Juma Mosque:
Once more the city’s style is transformed at the opposite side of Metekhi Virgin Mary Assumption Church where the neighborhood looks more luxurious and traditional at the same time. You can visit the Mosque of Tbilisi and stroll around the narrow streets at its surroundings where you can locate very interesting buildings and views.
Chreli Abano Thermal Baths :
Tbilisi is also known for its thermal baths. There are many types that you can visit but my favorite is Chreli Abano. Even if you are not in the mood to enter the spa, its building is absolutely impressive and also deserves a visit even from its exterior. Next to the thermal spas you can also cross the Bridge of Love, lock you love or friendship with a little colorful locker and admire the view.
Mother of Georgia:
On Tbilisi’s cliff stands with glory the statue of Mother of Georgia watching the whole city. You can either climb the stairs to reach the statue or take the funicular from Europe Square and fly over Kura River. Either way the view from the statue’s area is breathtaking and will totally impress you.
Holy Trinity Cathedral:
One of the biggest and tallest orthodox cathedrals in the world is in Tbilisi and it is absolutely remarkable. Its imposing exterior and its unique interior cannot be missed. What was the most impressive about its interior was not its size nor its hagiographies but the existence of another church (like a secret church) inside the main one. The ground floor of the church is a normal orthodox church, a little bit disorganized I would say. Nevertheless, if you follow some stairs that lead you to the inferior floors there is a whole different image: a deluxe level with marble floor like a private banquet hall and if you go down a few more floors, appears a smaller but luxurious, clean and shiny church. (Even a church in Tbilisi can surprise you!).
Hamlet Gonashvili Street/Lado Meskhishvili street:
If you return on foot to Old Tbilisi from the Holy Trinity Cathedral make sure to pass from the neighborhood that stands below the glorious church. Its main streets are Hamlet Gonashvili Street and Lado Meskhishvili street and its surroundings. The scenery is now completely different and does not resemble the Old Tbilisi part; Little grocery stores, traditional bakeries (where you can find the local and delicious khachapuri pie), old, abandoned or not, buildings (some of them with cute details that make them beautiful), everyday people struggling is the image of the non-touristic part of the city. At this part, you may also find many currency exchange centers with very good exchange rates.
Liberty Square
Liberty Square is the starting point of the more modern side of the city. At the freedom square underpass are located little stores with souvenirs (there are also stores selling actual guns in the underground market- a little bit creepy). Walk around Shota Rustaveli Avenue where you may admire the imposing Parliament Building, the Georgian National Museum, the Georgian National Museum of Fine Arts, the Opera and Ballet Theater of Tbilisi and lots of stores with popular brands. Next to Zara at the same avenue, you will find a narrow little alley called Shota Rustaveli Turn. At its end stand the Tile Stairs; 70 stairs decorated with different handmade ceramic tiles that are beautiful for a short stop when being in the area.
Giant Bicycle Monument:
In Parallel to the Shota Rustaveli Avenue at Rose Revolution Square, you may find a Giant Bicycle Monument, with a great view to the city and the river, where you can take marvelous photos. Next to the monument you have a coffee or brunch at Iveria Café (https://maps.app.goo.gl/G1iwpyAzdNUUmzXe9). The view and environment are wonderful!
9 April Park/Atoneli street
At the back side of the National Gallery the whole scenery is also very interesting. Revaz Tabukashvili street leads you to the 9 April Park, a beautiful park whose exit at Atoneli street transfers you to a luxurious block of buildings, cafes and restaurants. Upon leaving this lavish neighborhood, the setting once more changes and the old and ruined buildings arise. Atoneli street I would say resembles Cinderella, before and after her transformation into a princess.
Fabrica
If you are looking for an industrial style and eccentric experience when in Tbilisi, Fabrica is ideal for you; a hippie style center packed with alternative bars, restaurants and walls full of graffiti. The huge disco ball in the middle is my favorite.
Chronicles of Georgia:
At about 15 kilometers from the center of Tbilisi, on Keeni Hill stands the incredible Chronicles of Georgia, an imposing (more Asian looking in my opinion) historical monument that you cannot miss during your stay in Tbilisi. The most convenient way to reach Chronicles of Georgia is by taxi (Bolt application is very practical and cheap in Tbilisi).
It was created by a Georgian Russian architect-sculptor (Zurab Tsereteli) in 1985 who even if he was not able to compete his vision, the result remains breathtaking. It is composed of huge bronze stone columns which at their upper side demonstrate scenes of the history of Georgia and its kings, while at the lower levels, scenes from the life of Jesus. The view of the Hill is also outstanding; from the one side you may gaze at the beautiful Tbilisi Lake while from the other side you will be surprised (not in a very positive way) by the numerous blocks of flats that remind you of the ex-Soviet Union era.
Tbilisi Metro:
Even if you can go around at most places on foot or get a Bolt taxi which is very convenient and cheap, don’t miss the opportunity to enter even once the metro. The endless electric stairs will reach you to the very profound metro stations with the old but extremely fast wagons. Don’t miss it!
A little airport tip:
During the passport control exiting Georgia the officers ask apart from the passport, a printed boarding pass or the digital only though the airlines application. The boarding pass sent to you by email from the airline is not accepted by all the officers (at least this was my case; I was about to lose my flight due to an officer that did not accept my email boarding pass, while my friend’s boarding pass was accepted by other officers the same day. Indeed, it was a very weird and stressful situation).
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